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Yang Huan: How can Chinese morning tea open up Western taste buds?

2025-11-05   

In Chinese morning tea, there is a hidden connection between Chinese philosophy of life and emotions. Guangzhou teahouse, a pot of tea with several baskets of Dim sum, diners talk; On the streets of Wuhan, standing and chatting with Hot dry noodles is a lively social activity in the marketplace; In front of Wu Zhong's table in Ningxia, Lamian Noodles is served with Babao tea, which is the warmth of family and friends sitting around. Nowadays, Chinese morning tea has drifted across the sea, reaching places such as New York and London, becoming a new carrier for foreigners to explore cuisine and a vivid business card for Chinese cuisine to go global. How was China's morning tea culture formed? What differences in lifestyle and historical context do the cultural differences between Chinese and Western morning tea reflect? Recently, Yang Huan, Executive Vice Dean of the School of Ethnic and Historical Studies at Ningxia University and visiting scholar at the University of Cambridge in the UK, gave an interpretation on the above issues in an interview. The summary of the interview is as follows: Reporter: Both the East and the West have a catering culture with tea as the theme. How to define the concept of "morning tea culture" in China? What is the difference between it and the popular Western "afternoon tea" culture? Yang Huan: China's morning tea culture has been formed since the Ming and Qing dynasties, and is a dietary trend that deeply integrates tea drinking with breakfast. It is not just a simple breakfast, but also a lifestyle and social activity carried out in the morning through tea houses or restaurants - with tea as the core symbol, following the characteristics of "food in tea, tea in rice", and combining the dual functions of "food social", full of fireworks. There is no strict morning tea culture in the West, which can be described as' having breakfast to satisfy hunger, but not having morning tea for socializing '. The non dinner activities with social attributes originated from the "afternoon tea" of the British aristocracy in the 19th century. Its core lies in the exquisite and elegant sense of social ceremony: usually held around 4 pm, with tea or coffee as the main character, accompanied by various exquisite desserts; The environmental layout emphasizes the display of porcelain and silverware, and also pays attention to table manners during the process. Reporter: How was Chinese morning tea culture formed? Yang Huan: The formation of Chinese morning tea culture is the result of multiple factors working together. One is the long-standing and exquisite tea culture tradition. China is the hometown of tea and the birthplace of tea culture, with tea drinking customs dating back to the pre Qin period. During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, drinking tea became a favorite among literati and scholars. In the Tang Dynasty, tea planting areas expanded, and the trend of drinking tea spread throughout the court and the public. During the Song Dynasty, tea houses and shops were popular, and tea was also placed on the dining tables of ordinary people. "Tea after meals" became a normal way of life for Chinese people. The second is the catalysis of commercial prosperity in civil society. The urban commerce formed during the Tang and Song dynasties led to tea houses becoming places for information exchange and social negotiations. Merchants and literati often gathered in tea houses to discuss matters. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, commerce flourished, urbanization accelerated, and chambers of commerce and business groups traveled north and south. The convergence of local delicacies provided a fertile ground for the growth of morning tea culture. Guangzhou, as an important port for foreign trade, attracts thirteen merchants and merchants. The astute tea house operators combine tea drinks with delicate Dim sum to form a unique "one cup two pieces" (one pot of tea, two Dim sum) model, which has also become a representative of Chinese morning tea. The third is the influence of the integration of modern Eastern and Western catering cultures. Since modern times, western catering culture has been gradually introduced into China. Western elements, such as the baking technique of bread and the use of dairy products, have been skillfully integrated with traditional Dim sum, resulting in new varieties of Chinese and Western food, such as milky buns. It is worth noting that morning tea should not be simply labeled as a "slow life", as it contains a real-life scenario of "work in progress". Whether it is a teahouse or a street side restaurant, people often use tea and meals to chat, to bring people closer and promote affairs between the aroma of tea and food. This is actually a "diving form" of the Chinese hardworking spirit - not visible on the surface, but solidly implemented in daily life. Reporter: What differences in lifestyle and historical context do the cultural differences between Chinese and Western morning tea reflect? Yang Huan: Chinese morning tea emphasizes "socializing and ceremony", which is an important carrier of social and emotional communication. Surrounding the stove is a prominent feature of Chinese morning tea culture, emphasizing collective sharing and communication. Sitting around a table, sharing diverse snacks, promotes interaction and communication, and strengthens relationships. The shared steamer and rotating plate not only shape the collective experience of 'us', but also reflect the active care and etiquette consciousness of individuals in the group, which is a manifestation of' harmony in diversity '. Meal sharing is a prominent feature of Western afternoon tea culture, emphasizing individual space and privacy. But the bread basket passing, jam jar sharing, and coffee pot circulation on the family dining table also create a space for communication, giving food sharing and social colors. In Chinese morning tea, tea is the protagonist. The brewing and drinking of Chinese tea contain profound cultural connotations, and Lu Yu's "Classic of Tea" laid the foundation for the tea ceremony. Chinese tea emphasizes a warm and jade like color, with a restrained and humble quality. It awakens a collective consciousness of harmonious coexistence with heaven, earth, and others, reflecting the wisdom of Eastern philosophy of "stillness, contemplation, and movement". Coffee is dominant in the West. The industrialization process in the West started earlier, with a fast pace of life and a strong sense of time. The process of making coffee emphasizes efficiency and functionality, whether it is rapid extraction through concentration or delicate filtration through hand brewing. Coffee shops are not only places to replenish energy, but also catalysts for socializing and innovation, driving independent individuals to their respective battlefields, symbolizing the pioneering spirit of "seeking progress in action". Although there are differences between the two, they are not in opposition. The tranquility of tea and the vitality of coffee together form a rich and colorful picture of human life. In the context of globalization, tea and coffee are also blending together, giving rise to cross-border beverages. This reflects the collision and integration of different food cultures, and also interprets the common pursuit of a better life by humanity. Reporter: In recent years, Wuzhong morning tea in Ningxia has become popular. What role has the inheritance and innovation of Chinese morning tea culture played in promoting communication, exchange, and integration among various ethnic groups? Yang Huan: Wuzhong morning tea not only includes Babao tea, Lamian Noodles, Sanzi, Shouzhua mutton and other traditional foods in northwest China, but also fully absorbs the refined Dim sum in Guangdong's Cantonese morning tea culture, which not only retains the local traditional flavor, but also absorbs the advantages of Cantonese cuisine, demonstrating the cultural spirit of the Chinese nation's unity and integration. The morning tea culture in other ethnic regions is also diverse and exciting. For example, the morning tea in Inner Mongolia features milk tea as the main character, paired with specialty foods such as pork belly and milk tofu, reflecting the enthusiasm and boldness of nomadic people's lives; Yunnan's morning tea mainly consists of rice noodles, bait pieces, and various side dishes, showcasing the diversity of ingredients and flavors in multi-ethnic areas. Through communication and integration, various ethnic groups continuously enrich the connotation of Chinese morning tea culture. They share, learn from, and innovate their traditional cuisine, drinks, and dietary habits with each other, making morning tea culture constantly vibrant and lively while maintaining tradition, becoming a bond connecting different ethnic emotions and cultures. Reporter: Why can Chinese morning tea break through regional and cultural limitations and go overseas? Can it provide reference for the overseas dissemination of other Chinese cuisine? Yang Huan: In order to adapt to overseas markets, some overseas Chinese breakfast restaurants have made adjustments in taste or category, such as launching dishes like "cheese shrimp dumplings". This phenomenon of "localization" is not cultural dilution, but the intelligent adaptation of morning tea "going global", and it is also a bridge for cross-cultural communication. Moderate localization is a key factor for early tea to take root and grow overseas. From a market logic perspective, consumers' taste buds carry the imprint of local dietary habits, and the integration of cheese is precisely the "breakthrough point", making unfamiliar morning tea more familiar. Chinese morning tea is able to go overseas precisely because of its profound understanding of the wisdom of "following local customs when in Rome" - it confidently serves the "original soup base" of thousands of years of civilization, that is, the fireworks and human emotions shared around the table, the aesthetic of life matched with tea snacks, and knows how to "season on site" with an open attitude, shaking hands with local taste buds with creative fusion. This also provides inspiration for other Chinese cuisines to go global. We should learn to uphold the "soul" of culture and embrace an open "attitude", making cuisine a "catalyst for social interaction" and a "source of happiness" for global partners to meet. (Xinhua News Agency) Interviewee Profile: Yang Huan, PhD in History from Fudan University, Executive Vice Dean of the Institute for Strengthening the Awareness of the Chinese National Community (School of Ethnic and Historical Studies) at Ningxia University, Researcher and Doctoral Supervisor. Visiting scholar at the University of Cambridge, Executive Director and Deputy Secretary General of the Chinese Ancient Capital Society, Vice President and Secretary General of the Ningxia Historical Society. Selected as a renowned cultural figure in Ningxia and a top young talent in Ningxia. Mainly engaged in research in the fields of Chinese national history, northwest historical geography, and regional cultural industry development.

Edit:Luoyu Responsible editor:Wang Erdong

Source:chinanews.com

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